K-2 (Godwin Austen)
 


THE CONCISE HISTORY OF K-2

For the first time in 1856, Captain Montgomery conducted the first ever survey of Karakoram and named the peak K-2 locally known as "Chogo Ri". He also determined its height. In 1861 Captain Godwin Austen explored and mapped the great glacier region comprising the Chogo-Lungma, Kero-Lungma, Biafo, Panmah and Baltoro. He was the first to traverse most of these glaciers to discover the approaches to K-2 and to sketch it topography. He named K-2 as Mount Godwin Austen.

In 1902, first attempt to climb K-2 was made by a six men group of European climbers led by an English man Eckenstein. They could climb up to 6600 M.
In 1909, the Duke of Abruzzi (Italy) led a large expedition to Karakorum. Their attempt to climb K-2 failed at a height of 7500 M.

   

In 1929, Duke of Abruzzi's nephew the Duke of Spoleto (Italy) led an expedition but abandoned climbing K-2 and concentrated on scientific work.
In 1938, an American expedition for K-2 organized by American Alpine Club and led by Charles Houston could reach a point 7925 M on July 21.
In 1939, again an American expedition for K-2 led by a German-American climber Fritz Wiessner made an attempt and could reach a point 8380 M. The end result was a failure.
In 1953, an American expedition for K-2 which included Housten and Bates from 1938 expedition could climb up to 7750 M. expedition ended unsuccessful.
In 1954, Italians again returned after vigorous training and adequate planning under the leadership of Desio. On 29 July two members out of four reached the summit for the first time. The ascenders were Lino Lacedelli and Aehille Compagnoni.

K-2 EXPEDITION

K-2 is the highest peak in Pakistan and ranking 2nd in World. K-2 is also known as Chogo Ri. Its giant pyramid peak towers in isolation, 12,000 feet above the wide Concordia glacial field at the head of the Baltoro Glacier. The sheer icy summit is flanked by six equally steep ridges. Each of its faces presents a maze of precipices and overhangs.

FACT ABOUT K-2

  Other names:
Elevation (feet):
Elevation (meters):
Best Climbing Months:
First Climbed:
First Climbers: 		Mount Godwin-Austen, Chogo Ri
28,250
8,611
May, June, July,
1954.
Achille Compagnoni, Lino Lacedelli (Italian expedition)

Itinerary :

Day 1: ISLAMABAD
Arrive Islamabad.

Day 2: ISLAMABAD
Briefing at Ministry of Tourism. Meeting with LO (Liaison Officer).

Day 3: SKARDU OR CHILAS
Fly to Skardu or drive to Chilas 12 to 14 hours drive.

Day 4: SKARDU
Day free at Skardu or drive from Chilas to Skardu 8 to 9 hours drive.

Day 5: SKARDU
Free Day at Skardu for final preparation.

Day 6: ASKOLI
Skardu - Askoli (6-7 hrs drive).

Day 7: JULAH
Trek to Jhula near Domardo River. (8-9 hours).

Day 8: PAIJU
Trek to Paiyu provides good views of Baltoro South, Cathedral Towers and triangle of K2 at far view (5-7 hrs).

Day 9: PAIJU
Day free at Paiyu for acclimatization (3600 m).

Day 10: URDUKAS
Trek to Urdukus: To Khuburtze (8-9 hrs): A gradual climb up Baltoro Glacier on the southern edge. The walk mostly along the crest of lateral moraine, with stunning views of Paiyu Peak, Chorichi, Uli Biaho, Trango Towers and so on. A good camp site at 4200 m.

Day 11: Goro II
The first hour walk is across difficult side crevasses, however the way is smoother and easy in the center. Continue opposite of Yermanendo Glacier for 3-4 hrs to the camp site at 4500 meters pitched in the center of the glacier.

Day 12: CONCORDIA
5-6 hours slightly easy walk, with spectacular views and gigantic mountain panorama, including Mustagh Tower, GB IV, Mitre Peak and the mighty K2. Camp at Concordia at 4700 m.

Day 13: K-2 BASE CAMP
2-3 hours trek to K-2 base camp.

Day 14-39: CLIMBING
Climb k-2. No. of days depends on weather, fitness, and experience of the climbers.

Day 40-46: ASKOLE OR HUSHE
Return to Askole or Hushe and drive to Skardu. In case of trek via Gondogoro number of trekking days can be lesser.

Day 47: ISLAMABAD
Fly to Islamabad or drive to Chilas.

Day 48: ISLAMABAD
Day free at Islamabad or drive to Islamabad.

Day 49: DE BRIEFING
De-briefing at the Ministry of Tourism.

Day 50: ONWARD FLIGHT


  
 
  Expeditons
 
           
K-2 Gasherbrum - 3 buttone Batura Maztagh -1
Nanga Parbat Gasherbrum - 4 Chogolisa (South West)
Broad Peak Spantik buttone Rakaposhi
Masherbrum Maztagh Tower buttone Amin Brakk
Gasherbrum - 1 Trango buttone Trich Mir
Gasherbrum - 2 Beatrice buttone Gondoghoro Peak
 

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