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Beatrice |
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Beatrice is a 5,800m peak located on the north side of the
Charaksa Valley in the Hushe region. The summit ridge is
a rather narrow complex affair and has been reached once
before by a young British team in 1988. Andy Bunnage and
Bob Marks made the first ascent of the peak via the Diaper
Couloir, a 1,000m D+ snow and ice gully on the south flank.
There are several other spectacular granite walls and spires
at the eastern end of the Charaksa Glacier, close to K7.
These include TDK (The Dog's Knob), first climbed by Bob
Marks and John Styles in 1988 and now sporting three or
four separate routes to its summit. The North Ridge of the
symmetrical pyramid of Nasa (first ascent in 1988 by Andy
Bunnage and David Hamilton) has gained a reputation as the
easiest and most accessible rock climb in the Karakoram.
Graded British VS it has received seven or eight ascents
in the last decade.
Itinerary
:
Day
1: ISLAMABAD
Arrival in Islamabad, overnight in hotel.
Day 2: SKARDU
Flight or drive to Skardu, overnight in hotel.
Day 3: SKARDU
Reserve day for the road journey, in case the flight is
cancelled.
DAY 4: SKARDU TO HUSHE
After breakfast depart for the beautiful valley of Khaplu
which lies at the banks of River Shyok. Travelling amidst
towering barren mountains and green valleys we arrive at
the lovely village of Khaplu (2562 m). After a small break
at Khaplu we continue our journey towards Hushe via. Right
after Khaplu we will cross the Shyok River and enter the
Hushe valley. Hushe, the last village up the valley, is
about 140 kilometers east of Skardu and is the starting
point for treks to various summer pastures up five glaciers.
Overnight at Hushe village.
Day 5: HUSHED TO SAICHO
Here we hire porters and start our trek to Saicho. It is
an easy 4-hours walk to the beautiful campsite on the junction
of Ghondogoro and Charaksa Glaciers. From here we can have
an extraordinary view of K6, K7, Namika and numerous peaks
around us. Overnight in camp.
DAY 6: SAICHO TO BASE CAMP 4100m
Early morning start and again trailed behind the porters
up the lateral moraine to reach the dry glacier which was
undulating and covered in boulders. After half and hour
we again mounted the lateral moraine by an improbable soily
bank. After one hour we reached the smooth dry part of the
Charaksa. The glacier was followed for a further hour. The
final half hour walk over flat glacial till led us to our
idyllic base camp. The campsite is idealic and provided
and excellent cricket pitch for cricket lovers.
DAY 7-20: CLIMBING
DAY 21: BASE CAMP TO SAICHO
Walk along the north side of the Charaksa glacier to the
campsite at Saicho.
DAY 22: SAICHO TO KHAPLU VIA HUSHE
Return via same route to Hushe and reach Khaplu. Khaplu
is beautifully situated, spread across a wild alluvial fan,
which slopes steeply down from an amphitheater of the mountain
to the south. Distance 2 to 3 hrs.
DAY 23: KHAPLU TO SKARDU
Return via same route to Skardu. Overnight at Skardu
DAY 24: SKARDU TO RAWALPINDI OR CHILAS
Early in the morning fly to Islamabad, if unable to fly
same day drive to Chilas. Overnight hotel.
DAY 25: CHILAS TO RAWALPINDI
Upon arrival transfer to your hotel in Rawalpindi. Evening
sightseeing. If unable to fly on day 25th. This day will
be use to transfer from Skardu to Islamabad by road.
DAY 26: RAWALPINDI TO ONWARDS
De-briefing at Ministry of Tourism Islamabad. Evening transfer
to airport for your onward flight to abroad.
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